Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2025 Couture Collection by Ludovic de Saint Sernin

The 2025 Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week has come and gone, and the following 2025 Fashion Weeks are well underway. Originally, I was going to make just one blog post with my thoughts for all the collections. However, immediately upon watching my first runway of the season, I knew that I couldn’t make just one post for this week – that would do the both the designers and the collections themselves a gross injustice. The sheer amount of creativity, craftsmanship, and talent I saw from this single week was incredible.

We cannot talk Haute Couture without including Jean Paul Gaultier in the conversation. Personally, I was a huge fan of this collection by Ludovic de Saint Sernin. Immediately, it was clear that the collection was nautically inspired. The first look is a pale mint green corset with lace-up detailing running along the bodice, as well as in place of fabric for the cups of the corset. It was paired with a sheer mermaid silhouette skirt that has sequin details embroidered throughout. With the lights glistening off the sequins, there’s a distinct a scale-like quality to the skirt.  This first look sets the tone for the whole show. The wet hair sticking to the model’s face and her sultry stare – it’s clear that this collection showcases the darker side of the sea. This first look paints the picture of shipwrecks and sirens luring sailors to their deaths. It’s both haunting and captivating.

Throughout the collection, we see plenty of iridescent and sheer fabrics. This very much plays into the siren crux of the theme. We see nods to sailor and pirate inspired looks, using knee high boots, corsets, and outfits that incorporate lacing as an embellishment rather than for its practical use. Most of the collection is made from fairly muted colours; lots of dusty blue-greens, greys, browns, and blacks – colours that one would find in a shipwreck that’s sunken far from the sun’s rays. There was the occasional pop of red throughout, however, even then the red was dark and moody. I enjoyed the sharp, structured silhouettes found within the collection, especially the deep basque waist that was often paired with exaggerated pointed hips. This enhances the motif of the dangerous feminine seduction of sirens.

Of course, as with any collection, some looks were more striking and memorable than others. My absolute favourite look was the sand dress – I gasped when I saw the model walk out in this piece. It’s a sheer dress that’s decorated with specks of black that can be seen throughout the fabric, but specifically cluster around the chest and groin while still maintaining that delicate sheerness. Using sheer fabrics can be difficult, as it runs the risk of a look that is too exposed. However, clustering the specks around these regions created a dress that is simultaneously elegant and risqué. The bottom of the dress is completely opaque with this “sand fabric”, creating the illusion of drudging through the ocean floor. I love a simple silhouette, and this dress uses that to its advantage. The fabric seems almost painted onto the model’s body, with thin straps and a modest sweetheart neckline. The shape of the dress is timeless, allowing the fabric and design to shine as the centrepiece of the look. In line with the collection, this dress is seductive and tempting, daring its audience to come for a swim.

Overall, I was impressed with this collection. I loved the shipwreck story it told, and I felt that every look added something to this story, whether that was as siren, seaweed, ship, or crew. While some looks do venture onto the simpler side, each look is thoughtfully crafted and meticulously executed. The different textiles, details, and silhouettes curated a wonderful couture collection.